LONG RANGE TANKS
by Andrew (Aussie) Bray
Pic courtesy Ali Parsons
Fuel capacity usually isn’t an issue in home waters, but becomes one when yachts designed to sail have to motor for long periods. This commonly occurs when crewed or charter yachts need to be delivered on time across an ocean, or the length of the Mediterranean for example. Economizing with fuel, or routing to allow intermediate ports costs time and money. One solution is additional fuel capacity in flexible tanks which can be stowed away when empty, until next required. Historically these have a mixed track record, but as with inflatable boats there are real differences in the quality of materials and manufacture, and technology is maturing.
The jacuzzi provides convenient restraint for this 500L tank.
The illustrated “Super Deck Tanks” for example are designed specifically for diesel fuel and to be deck lashed. Their manufacturer’s website (www.turtlepac.com) includes an impressive slide sequence showing a 500L tank filled with water surviving a drop of 10 metres from a helicopter. The innerbladder is electronically welded – not glued or chemically bonded – and protected from puncture, chafe and sunlight by two outer envelopes with double welded and stitched seams.
A 200L off-the-shelf solution to increasing motoring range.
Different bladder materials are used for tanks containing petrol, and for water. Reinforced grommets (stainless steel) and the webbing tie down loops are sewn to the outer envelope, and the bladder fill (38mm) and draw off (20mm) connections are on the top and side respectively, with flexible hoses and end caps attached. The fill hose foldsdown. The tanks have an anti-surge harness with adjustable stainless buckle, and the inner bladder can be accessed through a flap, and is removable for inspection, repair, or even replacement. All in all this would seem to address known issues with previous generations of flexible tanks.
pic courtesy Chris Bray Photography
Deck stowage is an off-the-shelf solution requiring just some suitable strong points for tie downs, with the advantage that fuel can be gravity fed into the yacht’s main tanks via their deck fillers. Cushion shapes are relatively stable, and have a lowish center of gravity. However drum and other shapes are available, and may better suit some situations, including below-deck stowage into available spaces. A transfer pump may then be needed to access the fuel.
Their capacities are deceptively large - the smaller one in the illustration can hold 200 litres – equivalent to at least eight jerry cans, and at 6kgwould be significantly lighter. Much larger tanks are available but unless they can be structurally contained (as in the illustrated spar bath) finding strong enough deck points may be an issue. A number of smaller tanks allows their weight and loads to bedistributed, and for each tank to be either full or empty rather than needing belt tightening to prevent surging inside a partly full tank.
Extra tankage can also be an advantage when yachts are taken cruising, especially to remote areas or for extended times with daily running of engines for power, refrigeration, hot water etc. There may even be a financial benefit in being able to stock up where fuel is cheaper.
INFLATABLE LIFEJACKETS
MUST BE CHECKED AND SERVICED
Courtesy NSW Maritime
Inflatable lifejackets must work efficiently when they are needed. If not looked after they simply won’t work and you, your family and crew are then at serious risk of drowning. Remember, inflatable lifejackets are not lifejackets until they are inflated and all it takes is a fish hook, or a loose or damaged CO2 cylinder to prevent them from inflating. Follow the advice in this article and treat your inflatable lifejacket with respect. It is a life saving device.
HAVE YOU READ THE INSTRUCTIONS?
There are now many different brands on the market so it is important to choose one that suits your needs. Whether it is a jacket or vest, a yoke or a bum bag style, ensure you read and understand all the instructions. Familiarise yourself with the inflation procedures and the care required for your jacket while not in use.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I GET SERVICED?
Your inflatable lifejacket should be serviced according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. If the manufacturer has not specified, it must be serviced annually. It should also be self checked regularly between services to ensure it works efficiently. Servicing will ensure all parts of the jacket including the bladder, inflation mechanism and CO2 cylinder are checked and in good working order.
SHOULD I HAVE MANUAL OR AUTOMATIC INFLATION?
This will depend on what you are most comfortable with and in what circumstances the jacket is being used. The benefit of an auto inflating jacket is that as soon as the inflation mechanism gets wet the jacket will inflate, whereas a manual jacket’s CO2 inflation is only activated by hand. Poor swimmers may be more comfortable with an auto jacket, but remember a large amount of spray may activate the jacket while on deck. It is recommended that non swimmers and children under 12 years of age do not wear an inflatable. It is also strongly recommended that inflatable lifejackets not be worn on personal watercraft (PWC).
SKIPPER'S RESPONSIBILITIES
If the skipper is providing inflatable lifejackets, all passengers must be made aware of how the jackets work and also their capabilities (as with other safety gear aboard). If you are providing the jackets, make sure they have been serviced and tested on a regular basis.
WHAT STANDARDS SHOULD AN INFLATABLE LIFEJACKET MEET?
The jacket must meet the Australian Standard or one of a number of other standards. See www.maritime.nsw.gov.au for details of approved standards.
Inflatable lifejacket options include the bum-bag style.
Whatever style and brand you choose, ensure you are familiar with the inflation procedures and care required.
HOW SHOULD I CARE FOR MY INFLATABLE?
Store in a dry, well ventilated place, not the damp boat. Rinse in fresh water after use and dry thoroughly prior to storage. Remember, if the jacket is set for auto inflation, remove the auto inflation cartridge prior to rinsing. Your manufacturer may have specific requirements, so read the instructions on the jacket.
WHAT IF MY INFLATABLE HAS BEEN ACTIVATED?
Once activated, the CO2 cylinder is pierced and cannot be used again. On an auto jacket, auto components may also need to be replaced.
Cylinders and auto components are available from dealers, but it is wise to have spares on the boat or in the garage just in case.
While you are reading this article why don’t you put a reminder in your mobile phone, computer or calendar to have your inflatable serviced.
You’re the skipper – you’re responsible
Routine Engine Maintenance - with TMG Yachts
JOHN GAMLIN, from TMG Yachts’ exclusive service department VesselTec explains the simple steps for an engine inspection. John goes down into the engine bay and walks you through WOBBLES and what to do if you find something abnormal. This demonstration is done on a Lagoon 42 with two Yanmar Diesel Engines. Processes may differ depending on your engine type and make.
BEFORE STARTING
• Isolate the engine by turning it off
• Take off any loose clothing or tie up hair (if the engine has to be on)
• Do a general inspection for anything that might stand out – smells, leaks, excess fuel or water in the bilge.
WOBBLES
Water
Salt Water System
• Turn off water flow
• Check strainer and empty debris
• Check impeller for broken vains (if issues persist)
Fresh Water System
• Check reservoir fluid levels
• Open radiator cap and check levels, colour etc.
OIL
Engine Oil
• Pull out dipstick
• Clean dipstick
• Put the dipstick back in (all the way) and back out
• Check oil level and colour
Transmission Oil
• Pull out dipstick
• Clean dipstick
• Put the dipstick back in (but do not screw) and back out
• Check oil level and colour
You want your oil levels between the minimum and maximum markings (do not overfill).
Colouring should not be milky (this could mean there is water inside), after a bit of use it should be black but not too black or thick.
BATTERY
• Check connections and movement, if loose use a spanner to tighten
• If you find corrosion use a wire brush and then apply a protectant
• Also, check connections on battery switches.
BELTS
• Check it is not fraying
• Check it is not too loose or too tight (check mechanic what deflection it should have)
You may need to take off a belt guard to get to this area.
SOUND
• Turn engine on
• Go to the side to see the water
• Ensure there is a steady flow of water pulsing out
• Ensure sound is smooth
• No bad vibrations
If the sound is unusual contact your mechanic.
IN-WATER CLEANING OF HULLS
by Rosemary Jilderts
But a little bit of history first … Way back into the dim dark past, sailors have cleaned their hulls of barnacles and other marine growth and repainted whenever and wherever they could, and whenever and wherever the hulls needed it. When John and I started cruising in the early 80’s haulout wasn’t too expensive – well within our means – and antifoul paints were reasonably priced. Annual haulout was the norm and in between times boaties would raft up against a suitable jetty and work like mad at low tide to clean and repaint the bottom between tides or they’d careen on a suitable beach or sand bar.
19th Century painting of ships careened for cleaning in the Torres Strait. Sokari and Reserch Vessel Sunbird on the beach side by side while carrying out cleaning on the hulls
After selling our second monohull John and I decided to build a catamaran. We were delighted that it would be easy to keep her clean and in good and safe working order by beaching her regularly. These cleanings didn’t need to be done too often back in the days when active ingredients that actually worked were allowed in the antifouls. The advent of tributyltin in the late 60’s/early 70’s was a godsend. It was cheap and it actually worked! But because of the effects of TBT on the aquaculture industry the use of tributyltin was eventually banned.
New and more expensive antifouls began appearing on the market but John and I were never able to find one that worked for the length of time the manufacturer suggested. In fact, on more than one occasion, after spending time and money in a boatyard sanding and repainting, we have discovered within just a few weeks of launch the brand new antifoul was inactive and growth was already appearing. Although the manufacturer replaced the paint it was economically unviable to haul out again. On the last occasion we headed offshore with non-working antifoul.
Until laws changed this was a common sight along the coast with yachts careened for cleaning regularly.
So while cruising through Malaysia we bought and coated our boat with antifoul containing tributyltin and although it was sold as a six month antifoul, the hulls were still clean two years later. When we eventually decided to return to Australia we reluctantly removed it all (there was virtually no biofouling on the hulls) and replaced it with ‘acceptable’ antifoul which only lasted a few months and cost a small fortune.
So, we set our minds to accepting the less effective bottom paints knowing that we’d just have to hop in the water or beach our boats and give them a good scrub more often. Then the Hand of God (meaning the maritime authorities) descended, and with a massive whack on the back that took our breath away, they stated that we could no longer clean our boats in the water.
This now created a dilemma for many. A lot of boaties cruise on a shoe-string budget and simply could not afford to be hauling out every time biofouling appeared.
Microfouling is the slime layer which can be easily Macrofouling are those larger organisms that are visible to the
removed by wiping. Image DAFF human eye ... barnacles, tubeworms, mussels etc. Image DAFF
Everyone understands that without some form of control the accumulation of marine growth on vessels increases drag and fuel consumption. So, we have to keep our hulls clean. In many harbours, particularly in warm tropical waters, biofouling grows rapidly so an annual hull clean is insufficient. The only option is to regularly give the hull a scrub down in the water. But this was illegal.
The ban was the topic of conversation at barbecues, get-togethers and over sun-downers. “Why,” so many asked, “can’t we clean in-water. The barnacles came out of the water, so why can’t we put them back?” But the law, no matter how ridiculous and unrealistic it seemed, was there – and presumably there to stay. A lot of boaties were caught in the act and fined; but occasionally someone with a brain made a rational decision as the following story indicates.
One Christmas we lent our dinghy to a boatie in the harbour for a few weeks. When we returned from holidays the dinghy’s bottom, which is normally clean because it’s kept on davits, was foul with silt from being in the water constantly. No barnies ... just silt ... (microfouling as I have since learned) so John decided to wipe it down on the marina dock. He was immediately reprimanded by an official, as it was “against the pollution laws”. “Now if you tell me you are looking for a crack,” he said, “that would be okay.” He was obviously a realist. Naturally, John replied, “I’m looking for a crack.” As you read on you will realise that the marina staff member had been misinformed and John was, in fact, quite within his rights to clean off the silt.
Another issue that John has complained about for years is that the bans on in-water cleaning were at odds with maritime regulations which state that vessels must be kept in a seaworthy condition. This means that props and rudders, especially, must be kept clean so that the vessels can move at any time. But how do we do that with ineffective or at the very least, less effective, antifouls that seem to be all that’s available to the recreational boatie?
A mussel inside a skin fitting could be an indication that A Current measurement instrument encrusted with zebra mussels.
there are more throughout the boat's plumbing.
Biofouling – We all know the purpose of antifouling. We know that biofouling is the ‘growth and accumulation of aquatic organisms on vessels and other movable submerged structures which affect their performance and can lead to the spread of invasive aquatic species.’ We also know that by not keeping the underwater areas clean organisms can be spread, so we have a responsibility to clean regularly particularly when moving between locations.
But how do we do that legally without hauling out on a more regular basis? No matter what we did, we couldn’t be legal. Clean in-water and we were breaking the law. Allow the barnacles to accumulate on moving parts placing the boat in an unseaworthy condition and, once again, we were breaking the law. Many boaties simply continued to clean in the water and prayed not to be caught. So, most of us became law-breakers by continuing the practice. It didn’t surprise us when we realised that even departmental boats were cleaned in the water.
We agonised over the problem for years then recently, while researching another issue, John came across a piece of new legislation that doesn’t seem to have been given much publicity. I even quizzed some maritime officials and they were also unaware of it. But now, after a lot of research of current regulations, of visiting official website after official website and clicking on link after link it seems that in-water hull cleaning may actually be legal ... perhaps with some conditions applied ... but in some cases it looks as though it is even ‘recommended’.
The EPBC Act
In June 2013, the ‘Anti-fouling and in-water cleaning guidelines’ replaced the ‘Australian and New Zealand Environment and Conservation Council Code of Practice for Antifouling and In-water Hull Cleaning and Maintenance, 1997’.
Part two of these guidelines addresses in-water cleaning and it states that vessels and moveable structures should be removed from the water prior to cleaning. However, in cases where removal is not economically or practically viable, (emphasis by author) the guidelines accept in-water cleaning as a potential management option for removing biofouling, providing that risks are appropriately managed.
It does seem, however, as though regulations for in-water cleaning in Commonwealth waters could be different to those in each state’s waters. There was a link to the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999 (the EPBC Act) for more information on the state regulations but the link didn’t work so I was unable learn more. By now I was going cross-eyed and becoming frustrated with all the false leads and broken links.
While emphasising their preference for out of water cleaning and maintenance the department does now have guidelines for in-water cleaning.
C GUIDELINES FOR IN-WATER CLEANING
The new guidelines are intended to assist authorities to decide on the appropriateness of in-water cleaning operations in general and on a case-by-case basis.
The guidelines are based on the following :
• the risks posed by biofouling management measures should be balanced with the risks of failing to manage biofouling;
• there is an operational need to manage biofouling on vessels and movable structures;
• it is preferable to minimise the accumulation of biofouling on vessels and movable structures;
• and it is preferable for biofouling to be removed in the location where it was acquired before departing or moving to a new location.
Once antifoul stops working it doesn't take long for marine Macrofouling on the underwater areas of a boat's hull.
growth to accumulate on underwater areas.
The guidelines also state:
• Keeping the in-water areas of our boats clean optimises the boat’s performance and will also minimise biosecurity risks. However, cleaning can physically damage some anti-fouling coatings, shorten the coating life and, when done in-water, can release a pulse of biocide as well as invasive aquatic pests into the surrounding environment. So, in-water cleaning should only be undertaken when removal of the biofouling won’t harm the coating and is an acceptable biosecurity or contaminant risk.
• The department does, however, state that although in some circumstances in-water cleaning is recommended, vessels and movable structures should be removed from the water for cleaning and maintenance in preference to in-water operations, where this is operationally and economically practicable. In-water cleaning shouldn’t be considered a replacement for coating maintenance and renewal at recognised shore-based maintenance facilities.
Record keeping
For recreational vessels, the preferred form of documentation is a biofouling record book and/or biofouling management plan, or original receipts or invoices stating the coating type and the volume purchased, vessel name and date of application, where the former document(s) are not held.
At this point I was finding the research heavy-going so I attempted to contact the ‘relevant authority’. I was pleasantly surprised to receive a very prompt response however the content also surprised me ... but not pleasantly, “As your online profile suggests you publish regularly in boating publications, I need to determine whether you intend to publish the answer the Department provides to you ………. Your honesty in this matter would be appreciated.”
My initial enquiry had been of a personal nature, however, by now I thought the readers deserved to have an answer also. I responded immediately with those facts ... and that was the last I heard from them. I can only assume it went into the THTD (Too Hard To Do) basket.
So, I went back to the internet and a myriad websites to start untangling the mess. Just before completing the article I decided to give them a prod ... another chance to answer my queries ... explaining that their lack of response would be noted in the article and lo and behold I had a reply within one hour with their ‘answers’. The contents of the email follow :
Hi Rosemary
Below is your response regarding in-water cleaning. Apologies for the delay.
The Anti-Fouling and In-Water Cleaning Guidelines are intended to encourage best practice approaches to in-water cleaning and minimise contamination and biosecurity risks associated with such activities.
These guidelines are being implemented on a jurisdictional basis, as each state and the Northern Territory has different implementation arrangements within their waters due to different management frameworks. Advice on implementing the guidelines in state and territory waters should be obtained from the relevant agency within a particular jurisdiction.
The Department of Agriculture is able to provide advice about the biosecurity risk of a proposed in-water cleaning activity in Commonwealth waters.
Appendix 1 of the guidelines contains a decision support tool which may assist owners and operators of vessels to determine the types of information considered by authorities in decisions on in-water cleaning. In addition, there are general recommendations about in-water cleaning in Commonwealth waters on the Department’s website at
http://www.daff.gov.au/animal-plant-health/pests-diseases-weeds/marine-pests/anti-fouling-and-inwater-cleaning-guidelines/general-recommendations.
Someone wishing to in-water clean in Commonwealth waters should first visit the Department of Environment website for information about their obligations under the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999 (the EPBC Act). If the proposed in-water clean will significantly impact on heritage values of a declared World Heritage property or National Heritage place the matter needs to be referred under the EPBC Act. The initial process is one of self-referral, where the applicant decides whether or not their activity has, will have, or is likely to have an impact. Further information is available at
http://www.environment.gov.au/heritage/management/referrals/index.html.
Enquiries regarding the biosecurity risk of a potential in-water cleaning activity can be directed to the Department of Agriculture through the email address This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
So, there were no proper answers to my questions ... nothing to give us even a broad idea of the requirements ... nothing the layman could really understand. And in the end I was just pointed back in the direction of the same website and the same department that I had originally contacted. So, once again, head down, bum up and I began digging through all the relevant websites, following links ... many of which were broken and took me nowhere. But in the end, I believe I came to understand the current situation.
(When reading the following, carefully consider their wording. ‘Not recommended’ is not the same as ‘banned’; ‘should’ is not the same as ‘must’. Words in bold are for emphasis by author.)
“Regular (6-12 monthly) in-water cleaning is an effective way to limit the development of biofouling and is recommended for all submerged surfaces, particularly propellers and other niche* areas on vessels and movable structures.”
*(Niche = Areas on a vessel or movable structure more susceptible to biofouling accumulation due to different hydrodynamic forces, susceptibility to anti-fouling coating wear or damage or absence of anti-fouling coatings. They include, but are not limited to, waterline, sea chests, bow thrusters, propeller shafts, inlet gratings, jack-up legs, moon pools, bollards, braces and dry-docking support strips.)
“Any in-water cleaning should be conducted in the same location where the biofouling was acquired so that cleaning may not pose a biosecurity risk as all biofouling species on the vessel would already be present in that area. However, if the biofouling was acquired from distant locations it may contain invasive species that do pose a risk.”
In-water cleaning to routinely remove mature and extensive macrofouling as a substitute for earlier and/or better maintenance practices is not recommended.
In-water cleaning of vessels or movable structures should ideally be carried out before departing to new destinations, not after arriving at those destinations.
In-water cleaning should only be carried out on anti-fouling coatings that are suitable for in-water cleaning. Information can be obtained from the coating manufacturer.
In-water cleaning should not be performed on vessels or movable structures that have reached or exceeded their planned in-service period. When the anti-fouling coating has reached the end of its service life the vessel or movable structure should be removed from the water and a new anti-fouling coating applied.
Preparation and mixing of anti-fouling coatings must never be carried out in intertidal areas.
In-water cleaning technologies should aim to, at least, capture debris greater than 50 micrometres (µm) in diameter, which will minimise release of viable adult, juvenile and larval stages of macrofouling organisms. Any cleaning debris collected must be disposed of on land and in compliance with the waste disposal requirements of the relevant authority.
If suspected invasive or non-indigenous aquatic species are encountered during in-water cleaning or other vessel maintenance activities, the relevant authority should immediately be notified and the cleaning or maintenance activity ceased.
Biofouling type
Microfouling refers to a layer of microscopic organisms including bacteria and diatoms and the slimy substances they produce. This ‘slime layer’ can be easily removed by gently passing a finger over the surface.
Macrofouling refers to large, distinct multicellular organisms visible to the human eye, such as barnacles, tubeworms, mussels, fronds of algae and other large attached or mobile organisms. Macrofouling growths represent a greater biosecurity risk as they may contain a diverse range of organisms, and are more difficult to effectively remove and contain.
The accumulation of marine growth can weigh down navigation aids.
General Recommendations for in-water cleaning in Commonwealth waters
Commonwealth waters extend from the 3nm line (the limit of coastal waters) seaward to the 12nm (limit of the territorial sea.)
A slime layer (microfouling), regardless of origin, may be removed without full containment of biofouling waste, providing a gentle, non-abrasive technique is used.
Macrofouling, (fouling that has progressed beyond a slime layer) acquired from beyond the Australian Economic Exclusion Zone, should not be cleaned in-water if technology is not available to minimise release of viable biological material into the water column.
Locally acquired macrofouling may be cleaned in-water providing the coating is suitable for cleaning and the cleaning method does not damage the coating surface or release unsuitable amounts of contaminant into the environment. The biofouling waste does not need to be contained.
Macrofouling acquired from another area of domestic origin may not need full containment of the waste but this must be determined by the relevant authority. Macrofouling from international locations should only be removed using cleaning methods that minimise release of all organisms or parts of organisms and anti-fouling coating debris. Exceptions could be that in-water cleaning is still banned where biosecurity controls have been implemented for invasive aquatic species management purposes. So, I seem to have determined that in-water cleaning is acceptable, even recommended, under some circumstances.
The way I read the legislation it is now recommended that we clean our hulls in-water on a regular basis, preferably before macrofouling occurs, certainly in Commonwealth waters. However, we SHOULD haul out once the antifouling is no longer working to clean, maintain and repaint. Boaties should consult with their state authorities on their individual recommendations.
Props and rudders must be kept clean so that the vessel is in a 'ready to move' condition at all times.
With a layer of barnies like this performance would drop and fuel consumption would increase.
This sounds very reasonable, but hang on ... there is one new problem I can see with haulout. All boats must now have insurance to use marinas (some insist on full comprehensive while others accept third party); jetties and haul-out yards. Therein lies another problem.
Since tropical cyclone Yasi cut a swathe of destruction through the Cardwell area, insurance companies, in a knee-jerk reaction, have decided to hit the majority of boats in the north. Most companies we rang refused outright to insure northern boats; one from WA wouldn’t insure boats above postcode 4600 while the few that would accept boats put such high premiums on them that it wasn’t viable. It seems that this reaction isn’t limited only to cyclone prone areas, with southern states also suffering from increased costs and denial of renewals.
So, where do we go from there? Insurance companies are denying us the right to insure, either by an outright refusal or by making premiums so outrageously high that people simply can’t afford it. If we can’t get insurance, we can’t haulout to do the maintenance and to repaint.
So, regardless of how many restrictions the ‘relevant authority’ puts on us regarding in-water cleaning, many boaties who can’t get insurance will have no alternative but to clean in-water no matter what. At least there has been a relaxation of the in-water cleaning rules for the beleaguered boatie rather than the previous outright ban.
HARD LABOUR ...
by Gavin Le Sueur / photos Adam Snow
Scrub the bum and lose a ton.
It's an old yachtie proverb, and true.
A clean underwater profile makes a huge difference to performance and the impact is magnified on multihulls because the drag coefficient increases to the square of the velocity. This means that if you double your boat speed your quadruple your drag coefficient. Slime, weed and barnacles will have a speed limiting and marked performance impact.
Balancing the needs for a slippery underwater profile are the factors that have a real world impact on how clean our hulls are. It is expensive to slip and antifoul. We (most that I know anyway) try and stretch our antifouling to beyond it’s use by date. When the growth occurs I usually start making a trip to somewhere I can scrape off the barnacles and gently wipe the slime away. At the start of the process I actually run the slimy waterline with an old credit card – stiff enough to remove the growth without impacting the antifouling.
Polishing the waterline. Gavin happy to have a clean hull and ready to have a good lie down.
I am a fan of copper impregnated epoxy antifoulings – they are less polluting and can be scrubbed hard when the growth is a bit more than just slime. But I live in the tropics so a reef run is not an issue and I’m happy to jump in the water for the exercise. Those in the colder climes often employ hull cleaners to extend the antifouling time.
On a few of the professional boats out of Cairns the multihulls have no antifouling, just a strong underwater finish, and are cleaned at least monthly - when you work out the cost – labour vs slip and antifoul annually – there is not much difference.
Using the scrubber the hulls are done in 15 minutes. Our home in Cairns.
Over the years my hull cleaning techniques have gradually changed. On Favourite Child I think I have reached the limit of solo hand scrubbing. There is way too much underwater area with 16m hulls. While exploring my options I came across a ‘Nemo’ underwater scrubber. Pretty much a big waterproof polisher. I am sure there are lots of brands out there but this has been a beaut device and literally cut my cleaning time in more than half. I use the soft brush, go over the entire hull and then follow it with a sharp scraper to remove any barnacles that have started. It is, of course, all about timing. Big barnacles and it is all labour. The scrubber has a hard brush but it doesn’t lift barnacles and also does not leave much in the way of antifouling! I have decided to clean the hull properly as soon as the growth appears. I then log the date and plan to do it again in six to eight weeks. In Cairns that is about the limit. Each location will have its own rules and pattern. On Favourite Child the previous owners used different colours to layer up the antifouling. When it is scrubbed through the first layer you are down to the one that is good for about another six months. An interesting idea. Might be good as I am at the 16 month mark at the moment and onto the second scrub. I plan to slip in a few months and recoat. The challenge then, which is faced by all who have to antifoul, is what to use?
The difference in seconds.
My cat is moored in Moon River, Bluewater – tidal but with a fresh water flow in the wet. I plan to go a hard antifouling. It builds up over time (each repaint is another layer unless you do a toxic sand). The advantage of hard antifouling is that it can be scrubbed without losing a substantial amount. They are also more fresh water tolerant. Down the track I will again remove all the antifouling – down to glass and coat with a copper impregnated expoxy. When we plan to head off for a prolonged cruise I then coat the copper epoxy with a soft leeching antifouling – especially around the waterline – so that it can gradually wear and reduce the need to clean the boot line.
All the work we do under the waterline is a compromise – cost, time and effort all have to be balanced. But there is nothing like that first time you slip and feel the smooth glide through the water knowing the bum is as slippery as it will ever be.
Slippery hulls motivate the trimmer to work. Polishing the waterline during a quick snorkel.
